Marybeth's Italy Tour Travel Blog

Bietola

2011-02-09T13:05:00.000-08:00

Fresh greens in the middle of winter? Why not? Here is last year’s Swiss chard (bietola) still growing in my garden on January 21, 2011. No, this wasn’t inside a cold frame or hoop house – they were buried under dead maple leaves and snow! I was able to pick this whole colander’s worth of lovely, fresh bietola in the middle of winter!

Swiss Chard is a relative of the beet, and its origins have been traced back to Sicily. This vegetable is very high in fiber, protein, and vitamins and is very versatile in the kitchen.There are many other varieties available, including a white-stalked Italian heirloom called “Lucullus,” named after the Roman general Lucius Lucullus, c. 117 BC–57/56 BC, who was renowned for his vast gardens, the Gardens of Lucullus, where the Borghese Gardens are now located.

In this photo, the variety with white stalks is called “Perpetual Spinach,” though it is not spinach at all. It is a relative of chard also known as “leaf beet chard,” and can be used just like chard (or spinach!). The orange-stemmed variety is “Orange Chiffon Swiss Chard,” from www.kitchengardenseeds.com, and the magenta-stalked variety is called “Magenta Sunset Swiss Chard,” from www.johnnyseeds.com. I love the vibrant colors of these two chards, and their leaves are tender, especially when picked at this small size.

Cultivation:

Chard is extremely easy to grow. Sow the seed in well-drained, loamy soil, about ½” deep, about 3” apart, in rows about 12” apart. If you follow the square foot gardening method, you can plant 4 per square foot. Chard usually takes about 7 to 10 days to germinate and 50+ days until it is ready to harvest. It is a “cut and come again” vegetable, meaning that you can harvest some of the leaves of each plant and leave the rest to photosynthesize and keep the plant alive so that it will grow more leaves. As you can see from my photo, chard will sometimes last through the winter, especially if it is protected under leaves or a frost blanket. If you have any questions about how to grow chard, feel free to email me at Bettina@italianclubofsaltlake.com. I try to respond to all emails within several days’ time.

Ricetta (recipe): Chard with raisins, shallots, & pancetta

Cooking Tip: In most recipes using chard, I chop the thicker stalks into small pieces and cook the stems first for a few minutes, before adding the shredded or torn leaves. This is because the stalks take several minutes longer to cook.

Ingredients:

1 T olive oil
Several slices pancetta (about 2 or 3 T chopped)
1 large or 2 small shallots (about 2 T chopped)
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
½ cup raisins (I prefer golden raisins, but any raisins will work)
1 large bunch of chard (stems chopped and leaves shredded, keep separate)
¼ c. water
Salt and pepper

Directions:

Heat skillet. Add olive oil. Then add pancetta and brown. Add shallots and garlic and cook for several minutes.

Add raisins and chard stems.

Then add the water and deglaze the pan to scrape up the browned bits.

Cover the skillet and cook for about 3-4 minutes until stems are tender.

Add torn leaves and toss well with other ingredients in the skillet.
Cover and cook for 3-4 minutes until leaves wilt and are tender.

Season with pepper. Add salt if you like (pancetta is salty, so you may not wish to add salt).
Here the chard is served with baked salmon and lovely crusty bread with olive oil.
This recipe serves 2 to 4 people.

Where to buy seeds:

www.rareseeds.com, www.southernexposure.com

http://www.johnnyseeds.com/c-50-swiss-chard.aspx

The 2011 Gardening Season Begins - Let's Talk Garlic!

2011-01-14T14:28:00.000-08:00

Though the garden is sleeping and covered in snow where I live, the garlic and shallots are planted and will be ready to push up through their blanket of straw come early spring. Nothing says "Italian cooking" to me more than garlic! Garlic serves as the base layer of flavor for so many Italian dishes, whether it's something tomato-based, seafood-related, vegetable-only, a roasted meat... It's hard to imagine making something Italian without having some garlic on-hand.

That's why, in my garden, I always plant lots and lots of garlic! It stores well, and it's there whenever I need it all winter long. I'd like to share some tips on selecting garlic for your garden, along with one of my favorite recipes using this indispensible flavoring.

Not all garlic is created equal. First of all, did you know that most garlic that's consumed in America comes from China? If you're buying your garlic at the regular grocery store and it isn't labeled "local," it's likely been imported from China. I'd personally rather consume garlic that's grown closer to home and with more oversight regarding pesticides, fertilizers, etc. So, for the past ten years or so, I've just been growing it in my own backyard.

Here is my garlic patch as it looks today, buried under straw and snow, in the middle of January. In this single garlic patch, there are three different types: a Rocambole, a Marbled Purple Stripe, and a Porcelain. Each type has its own individual characteristics with regard to size, color, & number of cloves per head, flavor (hot vs sweet, nutty, etc.), best use (raw vs. saute'), and how long they will keep after harvest.

Within each type, there are many varieties or cultivars. For example, French Rose, Italian Purple, Russian Red, and Spanish Roja are four different varieties of Rocambole garlic. Rocambole-type garlics in general tend to be delicious raw, but they don't store as well as Porcelains (which many find too hot to eat raw). And you thought garlic was just garlic!

My favorite garlic mail-order company is Ronniger's, which has now forged with Potato Garden (yes, they sell seed potatoes, too!), http://www.potatogarden.com/. If you're interested in shopping for garlic, check out all the varieties on their website. Another great source is Seed Savers Exchange, http://www.seedsavers.com/. Most of the growing garlic sold by Seed Savers is Certified Organic, and they have a selection to make your mouth water: Bogatyr, Chesnok Red, Georgian Fire, Persian Star, Lorz Italian, and more. Don't the names alone make you want to start a garlic garden?

The time to choose and order your growing garlic is in early fall for most of the United States. Garlic must be planted sometime between about mid-September and mid-November, and certainly before the ground freezes. When you receive your garlic, split the heads apart into cloves and choose the biggest and hardiest-looking cloves to plant. Spacing and depth requirements are usually provided in the package from the shipper. Once you have planted your garlic, cover it with a generous layer of weed-free hay or straw to prevent it from freezing over the winter. To keep my straw from blowing away, I cover it with plastic trays and pin them down with metal stakes or top them with a few heavy rocks.

When Old Man Winter retreats and warmer days arrive, usually in early March, it will be time to remove the layer of mulch. I'm always surprised to see that the first green shoots have beaten me to it, and they are already poking up through the straw! They know when it's time! By about mid-June, you'll have garlic ready for harvest. Stay tuned to this blog, because when Spring arrives, I'll be posting pictures of the sprouting garlic, and I'll describe then how to tend and harvest your garlic.

In the meantime, here is one of my favorite winter recipes using garlic and another winter favorite - kale. It's more delicious than you think and definitely worth trying!

Kale with Garlic & Herbs

Ingredients:

1 to 2 bunches of kale, tough stems removed, and chopped or torn into large pieces

1/4 c. olive oil
1/2 t. red pepper flakes
1 can anchovies
3 to 4 cloves of garlic
fresh rosemary (leaves from about 3 sprigs)

1/4 c. balsamic vinegar

Directions:

Immerse kale in salted boiling water (in batches, if necessary) and cook for about 4 to 5 minutes until limp but still brightly-colored. Then submerge immediately in cold water to stop the cooking. Meanwhile, add next 5 ingredients to a food processor and blend. Put the oil/herb/garlic mixture into a saute' pan and bring up to temperature. Add kale and toss to heat the kale through. Add balsamic vinegar and toss again. Serve immediately. Makes a lovely and very healthy side dish.

Mangia, mangia!

Buon Natale!

2010-12-02T11:04:00.000-08:00

Buon Natale !

Last year at this time, I was packing my bags for Italy, about to head off on the Italian Hilltowns Tour. We spent 12 glorious days in Italy last December, taking special note of the lovely Christmas decorations displayed in piazzas and storefronts, like this Wild Boar Santa in San Gimignano. How cute is he?

And the food! Though pasta is satisfying at any time of year, it seems to be especially warming and hearty in the wintertime. Perhaps it's just that I chose more dishes prepared ragu' style than the lighter, fresh tomato dishes that I favor in warmer weather. In any case, it's Christmastime once again, and I have wonderful memories of two tours to Italy from the past 12 months - a total of one month in the Bel Paese. What a fulfilling year it has been!

As I prepare to set up our tree and arrange our festive decorations throughout the house, I am serene, and I'm pleased that I'll be savoring this holiday season with my husband and dog instead of jetting about the world without them, but I also long for a touch of Italy. The spirit of Italy at Christmas is so palpable, so personable, so connected, so.... flavorful!

There is also news to share with you about La Contadina, the company with which I've been affiliated for several years. Giuliana, the founder and owner, has created a new website for Tours and Events/Classes: http://www.giulianasitaly.com/. Her original website, http://www.lacontadina.com/, now features her handpainted Italian ceramics and includes an awesome video of her actually creating one of her handpainted specialities. You've got to visit the website and watch the video! If you live in Utah, you can now take ceramics classes with Giuliana and make your very own work of art!

Stay tuned in the coming weeks for information regarding Tours for 2011. We will be repeating some customer favorites and introducing some new Tours! In the meantime, hug someone you love, marvel at the sparkle in the snow, and do something kind for someone. Enjoy the magic of the season, and Buon Natale :-)

Marybeth

On the Piazza del Duomo in Orvieto, September 2010

A lovely presentation of tiramisu' in Florence, Sept 2010

Travel Insurance - Some Tips and Helpful Info

2010-11-12T10:53:00.000-08:00

Many people question whether or not to purchase travel insurance (also known as trip insurance) before going oversees. Sometimes, the decision is made for you. If you travel with me or with La Contadina, as with many other tour organizers and tour companies, you are required to purchase travel insurance, especially the type that covers repatriation expenses (the cost of getting you home if need be). Independent travellers have more flexibility in deciding, and Rick Steves provides a helpful article on the factors involved in making this decision: http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/tips/insurance.htm.

For those who are required to purchase some form of travel insurance, an easy website to use is http://www.insuremytrip.com/. This site allows you to compare numerous plans, their prices and coverage options, in an easy-to-read table format. In contrast, if you go through AAA, you are only offered the Access America insurance policy options, whereas Insure My Trip.com offers Access America and many, many other companies' options. The website also provides ratings for each of the policies (A+, A, A-, etc.).

Another interesting link is from the Travel Blog Exchange: http://www.travelblogexchange.com/profiles/blogs/a-case-for-travel-insurance. This traveller offers three instances in which travel insurance 'saved the day.'

TIPS: If you purchase your insurance well in advance of the trip, it can be extremely affordable - a drop in the bucket relative to the cost of your trip. The closer you are to your departure date, the higher the premium can climb, so shop for your insurance while you're shopping for your airline tickets!

It's also important to note that in order to cover pre-existing conditions, it can be necessary to purchase your trip insurance within 24 or 48 hours of your initial trip payment (such as purchase of your airline ticket, or your down payment to a tour operator).

Back from Italia After a Wonderful Tour

2010-10-02T12:24:00.000-07:00

We are back from the September 2010 Oceans and Hilltowns Tour - 15 days total in Italy. All that food! All that wine! And tiramisu'! And all the sights, and shopping.... I'll be posting pictures of our meals and reviews of some restaurants and accommodations in the coming weeks.

I also made lovely friends in Sorrento and am so thankful that we'll be able to stay in touch via Facebook until I visit again. I tossed my coin into Trevi Fountain, so I'll certainly be back!

Now that I've recovered from the jetlag, all I can think about is the "Return to Sorrento" Tour in late April 2011. Here is a beautiful instrumental version of the "Return to Sorrento" song: http://www.amazon.com/Return-To-Sorrento/dp/B003YOOS0W/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1286046333&sr=1-4

Great Women's Travel Pants by Isis

2010-08-20T13:40:00.000-07:00

Check out these great travel pants from Isis! These "Walkabout" pants will be coming with me on my September Oceans and Hilltowns Tour, and I'm looking forward to wearing them quite a bit while on tour with my ladies. These pants have a flattering and forgiving fit, are made of a stretchy and quick-dry fabric, and have several discreet zippered pockets (great for holding passport, Euros, credit/debit cards). They also roll up into capris for those warmer days. I chose black because they won't show dirt and will match everything. Thank you, Isis!
http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Isis-Walkabout-Pant-Womens/ISI0273M.html

Note: The picture provided by Isis (above, in khaki) is not terribly attractive. These pants actually fit very nicely and offer a bit of "drape" without being too loose. I also really appreciated the two discreet leg pockets for my passport and for extra cash. Here I am wearing the black Isis travel pants at our cooking class in Italy in September 2010. They were very lightweight yet durable, could be "dressed up" to look quite nice for evening, and could be rolled up into capris, which came in handy for the very warm but rainy day in the Cinque Terre (below):

Exchanging Dollars for Euros

2010-07-28T19:12:00.000-07:00

There is always some confusion regarding exchange rates. "How many Euros can I get for this wad of US Dollars?"

Many currency exchange rate websites, such as http://www.x-rates.com/ and http://www.xe.com/ display rates that apply to international banking transactions. For individuals who want to go to a bank to buy Euros with US Dollars, though, the rate is always less favorable, because the banks must acquire the Euros and also pay their staff to manage, process and exchange them. Banks charge a fee for these services (no surprise there!).

To get the daily foreign currency exchange rate that applies to YOU when you go to a bank to buy Euros, visit the website of a major bank, such as Wells Fargo or Chase, and look for their information on foreign exchange. For example, you can visit this Wells Fargo website and click on "today's rates:" www.wellsfargo.com/foreignexchange.

By the way, the Euro hit a 4-year low in May and has been climbing again slowly ever since. Today's rate (July 28, 2010) was 1.3706 dollars to the Euro.

Garmugia Soup Recipe from Lucca

2010-07-21T13:12:00.000-07:00

For those of you who might have seen "Garmugia" on the menu below from Prosciutto e Melone and wondered what it was, this link will bring you to a recipe: Garmugia Soup Recipe from Lucca. It is a hearty peasant-type dish believed to have originated in or around Lucca.

56 Days Until Tour Departure!

2010-07-20T17:07:00.000-07:00

It's hard to believe that we only have 56 days left until we depart for the Italian Oceans and Hilltowns Tour! This summer is flying by!

This restaurant may be the first place we visit once we arrive in Lucca. Isn't it adorable? I love the paint color on the plaster wall and the wooden gates that serve as doors. Below are some of their menu items - every single one makes my mouth water!

The ladies and I are flying to Italy a day before the Tour officially starts so that we have a chance to acclimate just a bit. We'll spend our first pre-Tour night in Lucca, and "Prosciutto e Melone" is a darling little restaurant right down the street from our B&B. Check back in October to see what I thought of this dining establishment.

Below is the street view of Prosciutto e Melone (restaurant on the left) - it's tucked away on this tiny "via" behind the Piazza Anfiteatro, in the heart of historic Lucca.

My Review of Teva Tirra Sandals

2010-07-02T11:18:00.001-07:00

Here is my review for the Teva Tirra Sandals, which are coming with me to Italy this September:

Originally submitted at REI, http://www.rei.com/

At home in the water or on terra firma, the Teva Tirra sandals mesh fun, feminine style and multisport performance for everyday, go-anywhere use.

Comfortable enough to hike in!

By Mb on 7/2/2010

Gift: No
Sizing: Feels true to size
Width: Feels true to width
Pros: Breathable, Comfortable, Cute, Durable, Great heel comfort
Best Uses: Everyday, Walking, International travel
Describe Yourself: Casual

Got two pairs, one for daily use and hiking, the other for an upcoming trip to Italy. Wanted to try them on the trail to see how they protected against uneven surfaces, as the cobblestones in Italy can really make your feet ache. These sandals were GREAT on the rocky trail! I've never hiked in sandals and was a little dubious about how they would fare, but they were awesome! I will hike in these again and again and am so relieved to have found a great pair of shoes for Italy. The best feature is the cushion under the heel - supportive but soft and really comfortable.

Castello di Verrazzano, Greve in Chianti, Tuscany

2010-06-22T09:52:00.000-07:00

Here is the Sassello Super Tuscan that we enjoyed the other night with our Italian meal. It is a fabulous wine, aged 18 months in oak, made from Sangiovese grapes. This wine is among many produced at the famous Verrazzano winery in Greve in Chianti, Tuscany. Its website is http://www.verrazzano.com/. Once on the website, click on the little British flag to get the English version to appear.

The vintner has this to say about the wine: "Sassello represents the highest expression of the terroir-vine binomial, where Sangiovese creates a unique wine with a deep and impenetrable colour of an intense ruby red, enhanced by purple overtones. The fragrance is fine and intense, wide and persistent, and offers a variety of fruity notes including cherries, blackberries, raspberries underlined by hints of oak and vanilla. The taste is elegant and complex with closely woven tannins both smooth and pleasant joined to notes of fruit and spice, oak and vanilla, with an equally pleasant and long finish."

No good wine tasting is complete without wild boar salame and bruschetta (above) ! We were made to feel very welcome, and the tastings were numerous and plentiful.

Simone, on the left, is the sommelier who led our wine tasting. His personality is as vibrant as his smile!

I recommend a visit to this charming and refined establishment. Visit their photogallery here: http://www.verrazzano.com/en/photogallery/

Italian dinner party

2010-06-21T08:56:00.000-07:00

Why not host an Italian dinner party for your friends this week? I did last night! On our menu: Bistecca di Manzo con Rucola (steak with arugula), Creamy Orzo with fresh garden peas and asparagus, and Panzanella, served with a FABULOUS Super Tuscan that I got in December in Greve in Chianti, called Sassello. Amazing meal!

The steak recipe is in the Rogers Gray Italian Country Cookbook, which I LOVE, and the Creamy Orzo is one of Giada DiLaurentis' incredible concoctions (not lowfat, but everyone goes nuts for this flavorful, creamy dish). Her recipe calls for frozen peas, but I added just-picked snowpeas and tender asparagus from my garden. And Panzanella, is of course, made most delicious by the freshest basil and the best-tasting olive oil. This early in the season, it can be hard to find tasty tomatoes, but the little organic grape tomatoes are packed with sweet tomato flavor right now. I toasted the ciabatta, rubbed it with garlic, salted it, and drizzled Viola olive oil aaaaallllll oooooover, before cubing it to add to the salad.

Seriously, this was one of the best all-around meals that I've ever made. And to top it all off, we savored the Super Tuscan. After the first sip, everyone was wondering what it was and wanted to see the bottle. We all thought it was fabulous!

My new favorite wine for summer

2010-06-19T14:56:00.000-07:00

This is my new favorite wine for summer, Banfi's Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay blend called Fumaio. You can read more about the wine on Banfi's link, here: http://www.castellobanfi.com/wines/index.php?wine=48 . Lucky for me, this wine is on sale for the whole month of June here where I live - just 7.99 a bottle! How crazy is that price? For a wine that is easy to drink with such crisp and light fruitiness, this is an excellent price. It pairs well with fish, and we've been enjoying it as an aperitif as well as with light pasta dishes (pasta with artichoke, pasta with asparagus, etc.). When I was in Montalcino in December, we visited the Croce di Mezzo winery, whose vines are directly adjacent to the Banfi estate. They share the same "terroir," or climate/soil/environment. We didn't enter the Banfi estate, but one of these times, I'm going to have to stop there for a tour and tasting. They make a lovely rose', too, in addition to their world-renowned Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino. For now, I've got two cases of Fumaio in the house, and I plan to enjoy this lovely white wine all summer long!

Two Glorious Weeks in the Bel Paese!

2010-06-19T14:47:00.000-07:00

It's official! I've bought my airline tickets to Italy! I'll be there two weeks in September with the ladies on tour. The tour is 11 nights, but I arrive one day early and stay on two days at the end. Having a trip like this to look forward to changes the way you experience every day, every moment.... It gives you an added zest, a hopefulness, a serene happiness that pervades everything you do... It's one of my most favorite things about travel.

Film Internship Photos

2010-06-19T14:42:00.000-07:00

Giuliana and Steve are posting their photos from this month's ongoing film internship o their blog (http://embarq-italy.blogspot.com/). Here is the link directly to their photo slideshow: http://www.flickr.com/photos/51169608@N06/sets/72157624155807379/show/. They all appear to be having a fabulous time!

Giuliana and Steve's New Film Internship Blog

2010-06-16T17:53:00.000-07:00

I am so excited to share the news that Giuliana and Steve, who are in Italy this whole month with University of Utah film students, have started a new blog! Please visit http://embarq-italy.blogspot.com/ to see wonderful photos of the gang hard at work doing lots of filming, and to read their heartwarming stories.

Lucca's Buccellato

2010-06-13T14:29:00.000-07:00

When I got to Lucca, I couldn't wait to try their famous Buccellato, and I knew I had to visit Taddeucci's to get the very best sampling.

You can visit Taddeucci's website to learn more about the history of Buccellato: http://www.taddeucci.com/.

Borrowing from http://www.experience-tuscany.thrifytuscany.com/, "Buccellato is a famous sweet-style bread from Lucca. As the old Lucchese saying goes: “Chi va a Lucca e non mangia il buccellato è come se non ci fosse stato” (Going to Lucca and not eating the Buccellato is like never being there). The Buccellato is a cake shaped like a doughnut or long loaf of bread and has an average weight of approximately 1 pound. Its main ingredients are flour, sugar, anise seeds, yeast, raisins and egg white. The Buccellato is a bread-like cake that stays fresh for several days, even if it eventually becomes very hard. When it hardens, it is usually consumed the Lucchese way, cut up into thick slices and dunked in wine (such as the sweet Vin Santo wine). It can also be toasted and served covered with sugar and strawberries." Read more: http://experience-tuscany.thriftytuscany.com/the-buccellato-di-lucca-pastry

Believe me, your Buccellato will get as hard as a baseball bat after several days, and if you're traveling without a toaster, you'd better get yourself some sweet wine to dunk it in! I recommend getting as small a loaf as they will sell you, or else plan to share it with several people while it is still fresh. :-) The anise flavor is quite pronounced and makes this a very distinctive treat.

Montalcino Wines

2010-06-13T14:08:00.000-07:00

Do you know the difference between Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino wines? They are both made from 100% Sangiovese grapes, but Rosso di Montalcino wines are aged only 1 to 1.5 years and never have to go in oak, whereas Brunellos must be aged for 5 years: 2 in steel, 2 in oak, and then the final year in the bottle. Oh, and don't buy any 2002 Brunellos - it rained too much that year and the wine made from grapes harvested in 2002 isn't as good as wine made in other years. Try to find a 2004 vintage - even though it is still "young" for a Brunello, 2004 was apparently a very good year for the grapes, and the wines have come out very nicely. Here I am with Brenda at the Croce di Mezzo winery in Montalcino taking a tour of their cellars (Dec 2009).

Want to share this blog about Umbria - you will love it!

2010-06-13T09:52:00.000-07:00

If you are interested in an insider's view of Umbria, check out Gabriele and Federica's blog: http://umbrialoversblog.blogspot.com/. You will love it!

Italian Oceans and Hilltowns Tour update

2010-06-01T23:53:00.000-07:00

Cute, centrally-located accommodations are being booked north to south, as are awesome exursions for wine and olive oil tastings and for cooking classes guaranteed to please!

We'll see major cities, teeny hilltop towns, and beaches along the Italian Riviera & along the Sorrentine Peninsula. We will climb bell towers, admire hand-painted ceramics, savor incredible traditional recipes, sip limoncello, and shop for our take-home treasures, but the very best souvenirs of all will come home with us in our hearts and minds, not in our luggage. They will be the memories we will have created on our adventure, the new appreciation for the Italian culture, the lasting mark that 12 days in Italy will inevitably leave on our souls.

We will be on vacation from America, opening ourselves to a different way of being in the world - the special "Italian" way of being, or perhaps rather the special way of being a guest of the Italian people. We will let Italy explain to us what she is all about, and we will not judge her according to our American standards. We will expect the unexpected and rejoice in it!

Andiamo!

2010-06-01T19:13:00.001-07:00

Canta che ti passa -

Italian Oceans and Hilltowns Itinerary, Sept 13-25, 2010

2010-05-25T15:25:00.000-07:00

OK, folks, here it is! The long-awaited itinerary for the September tour! Deposits to hold your spot are due Tuesday, June 8, 2010, two weeks from today. The deposit is $500, is nonrefundable and is applied toward the total tour cost, which is 3595 Euro. At today's incredibly favorable exchange rate, that's less than $4500. For 11 nights with all these transfers, meals, wine, and added bonuses, this is a great deal!
Day 0 – 1 Monday - Tuesday

Depart Mon Sept 13, 2010. Fly overnight to Europe. Arrive Florence airport on Tues Sept 14. Transfer to our centrally-located Florence accommodation.

By the time we get settled in, it will be late afternoon/early evening. Tour guests can choose to either rest or wander a bit of Oltrarno and maybe head over the Ponte Vecchio to admire all the gold jewelry and medieval storefronts, before heading back to a welcome dinner. Tonight we will enjoy our “sogni d’oro,” (dreams of gold) because we are in Italy!

Day 2 (really our first full day in Italy) – Sept 15 Wednesday

Following breakfast at our hotel, we will head out this morning to enjoy this Renaissance city, strolling along the Via Calzaiuoli (street of cobblers – shoe stores galore!), and further into the city toward the Duomo and the Campanile di Giotto (Giotto’s Bell Tower). Those who dare to climb it with me get treated to a Vin Santo tonight! Free time in the afternoon to wander the street markets, shop for purses, see the replica of Michelangelo’s “David” in the Piazza della Signoria (free and fast!), or maybe explore the Santa Croce area and visit the Leather School. Dinner together tonight to talk about how thrilled we are to be in Florence!
Day 3 – Sept 16 Thursday

Following breakfast we will transfer today by train to Lucca (greater Lucca area pop. 86,000; pop. within medieval walls 8,000), and test our wits in a cab from the Lucca train station to our centrally-located B&B. It’s a quick stroll to the unique, tree-topped Torre Guinigi, which we can climb for a view over the red tiled rooftops of this walled city. Then we head to the Piazza Anfiteatro for some sightseeing and shopping. Free time in the afternoon for you to stroll atop the famed medieval walls of this proud Etruscan city and have some personal time before joining together for dinner at a wonderful Lucchese restaurant. Dinner together tonight to celebrate being in this lovely town!

Day 4 – Sept 17 -Friday

Following breakfast, we will board the train and take a day-long excursion to the Cinque Terre, a string of 5 isolated, rugged villages clinging to the cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean. We will search together for the best pesto, the most flavorful wine, lemon-flavored honey, local olive oil, and locally-made handicrafts in this UNESCO Natural World Heritage Park. This is a day to admire the colorful architecture, breathe deeply of the sea air, and get some exercise as we climb and descend the often-steep and always-quaint village streets. Enjoy a little wine education courtesy of your Tour Leader during dinner together before we return to our peaceful retreat in Lucca.

Day 5 – Sept 18 – Sat - Free Morning

This morning is yours to do as you please – catch up on your sleep, write some postcards, check out the local markets, do some shopping, or maybe rent a bicycle and ride on the medieval walls that encircle the town. Take some time today and just experience what it feels like to be in Italy – stop by a little bar and order yourself a caffe’ or a glass of wine. Try to order in Italian. People watch. Listen to the language. Watch Italian women walk together arm-in-arm. Just be… in Italy. Then meet your Tour Organizer at 12:30 for an excursion into the Lucchese hills for a lovely Tuscan lunch in a farmhouse and then a visit to an olive oil maker. We will taste the locally-produced olive oil as well as some local wines before returning to Lucca about 5:30. Tomorrow we leave Tuscany and head to Umbria! Dinner on your own tonight (your Tour Leader can make recommendations or you can find your own spot!).

Day 6 – Sept 19 - Sunday

Following breakfast, we will head to Orvieto in Umbria. Along the way our driver will drop us in “San Gimignano delle belle Torri” (San Gimignano of the beautiful towers, pop. 7100), one of the best-preserved hill towns in all of Tuscany. In fact, San Gimignano has been made a UNESCO World Heritage Site and still has 14 towers remaining from the 11th-13th centuries. We will wander the hilly streets and explore the Piazza Duomo and the Piazza della Cisterna (an ancient cistern has been in operation for over 1000 years in this piazza). Before taking off for Orvieto, Umbria, you may wish to visit the famous gelateria and perhaps try the Crema di Santa Fina (orange cream gelato flavored with vanilla bean pods), or the famous Sorbetto alla Vernaccia, another specialty flavor found only here. You may want to pick up a bottle of local Vernaccia di San Gimignano, a white wine made in this region since the Renaissance. We will then drive to Orvieto (pop. 21,000), check into our lovely centrally-located hotel, and call it a day – a great day! Settle into our Orvieto hotel and enjoy dinner at your Tour Leader’s favorite pizzeria.

Day 7 – Sept 20 Mon

Following breakfast at our hotel, we will admire the glorious façade of the Duomo before getting our admission tickets to the Orvieto sights. Enjoy the Orvieto underground with a local guide and then rejoin your Tour Leader for an escorted walk through town to the Etruscan necropolis, an ancient burial ground at the base of the tufa bluff on which this city rests. The afternoon is yours to explore a bit on your own, do some shopping (great leather masks here!) or take a short bus ride (included) to Il Pozzo di San Patrizio (St. Patrick’s Well), a mere 248 steps down a spiral staircase at the edge of town. Of course, what you descend, you must then ascend! It’s fun, really! Dinner together tonight for traditional Umbrian fare.

Day 8 – Sept 21 Tues

After breakfast at our Orvieto hotel, we will depart by private driver to transfer to Sorrento (population 16,000), the gateway to the Amalfi coast. We will stop along the way for snacks and drinks, as this is a longer transfer (4 to 5 hrs). Sorrento is a beautiful seaside resort town about 35 miles south of Naples, overlooking the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius. We will spend 3 glorious nights in Sorrento, so unpack your bags and relax! Upon our arrival, we will check into our magnificent accommodation and then explore a bit of Sorrento together. Free time before dinner together tonight to try some specialities of the Campania region.

Day 9 – Sept 22 Wed Free Day

Today is yours to do as you please. You may wish to do nothing but sleep and walk on the beach, or shop for handmade sandals and limoncello. Or you might like to book an excursion to Pompeii. Enjoy being in this Mediterranean paradise! Lunch and dinner on your own.

Day 10 – Sept 23 Thurs

Breakfast at our accommodation or at a local cafe'. Then we head off together by hydrofoil to explore the famous town of Positano (population 4,000), where we can disembark for some shopping and exploring along the Spiaggia Grande (large beach). Positano was the colorful hillside town full of narrow, twisty streets featured in “Under the Tuscan Sun,” when Diane Lane put on her white dress and drove to the coast in search of her Italian lover. We aren’t making a movie, but we’ll feel like we’re living a dream! After a day of exploring, we return to Sorrento to attend our cooking class! We will be making pizza as well as a traditional Italian entree' and dessert. We will cook and laugh and eat on the terrace by the pool! Then it's back to our accommodation to pack our bags for our last adventure.

Day 11 – Friday Sept 24

Check out of our Sorrento accommodation and transfer to Rome. Check into our accommodation, and prepare to carry all our luggage up numerous flights of stairs, as if there weren’t enough stairs on the Amalfi coast! We are in the heart of Rome – a perfect spot for shopping, eating, and feeling what the Eternal City is all about. Enjoy a brief walking tour of this part of Rome with an excellent local guide. We will toss our coins into the Trevi Fountain to ensure our return trip to Italy! Then we will enjoy our farewell dinner together in the vicinity of our hotel and reminisce about all we have seen, learned, and felt. We will try to cram everything we’ve bought into our luggage, and try to get some sleep tonight. Your Tour Leader knows just the place to buy quality, durable luggage if you do find yourself needing another bag for the trip home! Buona notte. (Extra nights in Rome can be arranged.)

Day 12 – Sat Sept 25

Check out by 7:30 am, private transfer to Fiumicino airport . Arrivederci, and Thank you for traveling with us! ‘Til next time...

September 2010 Tour Itinerary Announced! Sept 13 - 25, 2010

2010-05-25T12:57:00.000-07:00

Come spend an amazing 11 nights with La Contadina in Italy this September. Special tour pricing is available with savings of over 15% because we have decided to stay at some B&Bs and to utilize the Italian train system for some transfers. These changes will keep costs lower so we can stay in Italy LONGER! The usual La Contadina price for an 11-night itinerary is 4300 Euro, but we are able to offer this September tour package for an unbeatable 3595 Euro a savings of over 700 Euros (over $880). At today's super favorable exchange rate, that comes to less than $4500. When you consider what is included (below), this is an extremely good price!

What's included: 2 nights in Florence, 3 nights in Lucca (Tuscany), day excursion to the Cinque Terre, 2 nights in Orvieto (Umbria) with a stop-over in San Gimignano, 3 glorious nights in Sorrento on the Amalfi coast, a day tour of the Amalfi coast, and 1 night in Rome. Single supplements and extra nights can be arranged at additional cost. Also included: all breakfasts, and 3 lunches and 9 dinners (including wine with dinner), 1 cooking class, 1 olive oil & wine tasting, services of bilingual tour leader, all transfers to/from airport and between lodgings. Tour begins in Florence and ends in Rome. Tour price does not include airfare, personal shopping expenses, and other things not listed in "included" above.

Positano

2010-05-22T15:24:00.001-07:00

Lovely Positano - the "jewel" of the Amalfi coast. I can't wait to wiggle my toes in the sand and gaze up at the pastel-colored buildings of this beautiful little town, while sipping a locally-made limoncello. Positano is on the itinerary for the September 2010 trip! Check back here for more info about this and other Amalfi coast destinations in the coming weeks and months!

Dining in Orvieto - Don't Miss Pizzeria Charlie!

2010-05-22T12:17:00.000-07:00

The restaurant I heard the best things about and that has great reviews is called Trattoria La Grotta, on Via Luca Signorelli 5, right off Via Duomo (between the Duomo and Corso Cavour, the main street intersecting Via Duomo). On my trip in December, we walked by and peeked in, and it looked darling -a converted stable with frescoes. Closed Tuesdays. tel 076 334 1348. However, we didn't eat there.

We ate at a super fun, highly-recommended, authentic, non-touristy pizza place called Charlie's Pizza. It was a bustling place on Corso Cavour, between Pzza. San Angelo and Via Delle Portiche - in general, that is northeast of the Duomo, about 1/2 way along Corso Cavour between Via Duomo and the Piazza Cahen end of town (where the funicular comes up). tel. 076 334 4766. All the Orvieto youth seem to eat here - it was so much fun listening to them and watching them and eating the FABULOUS pizza. The menu is almost overwhelmingly long, with many interesting choices. The owner is a darling man. I don't think they take reservations, so you want to get there ahead of the crowds to be sure and get a table - try to arrive before 8. They will not rush you, so you can stay all evening if you want :-) A fun, lively, local place but still quiet enough so you can talk. Buon appetito!

Mb and Giuliana enjoying pizza

2010-04-06T12:30:00.000-07:00

Giuliana and I met the other day with some tour clients at Settebello, a wonderful, authentic, napolitano-style pizzeria in Salt Lake City. Here we are dressed as if it were mid-winter, when in actuality, it was Easter weekend (April 5th). It's still snowing in Utah! The weather is never too bad to get together for a nice pizza, though :-)

Italian Hand Gestures - Watch and Learn!

2010-03-12T08:40:00.000-08:00

You will undoubtedly see these gestures throughout your trip(s) to Italy. Do you know what they all mean? Watch and Learn! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0n4Vw6twKo&feature=related

Be Safe - Carry Essentials in a Wrist Wallet !

2010-03-10T10:48:00.000-08:00

For an investment of just fifteen dollars, you can put your mind at ease while traveling in Italy. You can put your credit cards and Euros in this cool wrist wallet, available on the Sprigs website (http://www.sprigsville.com/banjees/index.html) and at other places on-line and in stores. No thief is even going to know what this is, let alone try to rip it off your wrist. It avoids having to dig into your purse all the time, and it allows you to carry non-essentials only in your purse (umbrella, guide books, maps, water bottle, spare camera batteries, etc.), assuming your have your passport in an ankle or waist wallet, that is. I would NEVER put my passport in my purse, by the way - NEVER EVER! More on passport safety in a future post... Just thought I'd spread the word about these awesome wrist wallets. I absolutely loved using mine on this most recent trip to Italia.

2010-01-14T13:02:00.001-08:00

Great little shop in Florence for unusual gifts

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Don't Skip Orvieto!

2010-01-02T17:05:00.001-08:00

Orvieto sits atop a mesa of volcanic material about one hour from Rome, in the region of Umbria.

Among other fabulous sites, Orvieto boasts a 2600 year old Etruscan burial ground (necropolis) pictured here. The necropolis sits at the base of the mesa, below the historic center of town, but is easily reached by bus or on foot. We walked from our hotel near the Duomo, and it took about 20 minutes to get there. It was mid-December and early afternoon, and we were the only visitors there, which just added to the wonder of the place. When you go to the tourist office, ask for the Carta Unica, which buys you discounted access to multiple sites, including the necropolis, and to use of the town bus.

Here is a view from the necropolis looking up toward the town. The sheer cliff walls are really stunning, though it was overcast on this day so the lighting doesn't really show it off.

The town was festively decorated for the holiday season with lights projected onto the churches and street decorations throughout the town.

It was a delight to stroll the streets at night - so quiet and beautiful.

More to come on Orvieto, so stay tuned!

Wine: you CAN take it with you when you go!

2010-01-02T13:57:00.001-08:00

Wine: you CAN take it with you when you go!

Posted using ShareThis

This link provides interesting info about how much wine you can bring back to the US duty-free, etc. and links you to the US Customs "Know Before You Go" pamphlet. Plus, I just really like Dr. Vino's wine blog for so many reasons! I'm picking up his "Wine Politics" for my January read.

I still vote for using the VinniBag instead of styrofoam for transporting wine. Styrofoam is not eco-friendly, is not leak-proof, and is not recyclable. Visit http://www.vinnibag.com/ or http://www.magellans.com/.

You must visit B&B Giglio Bianco in Florence !

2009-12-23T17:44:00.000-08:00

Here are some photos from our stay at B&B Giglio Bianco in Florence. This "home away from home" is located in the Oltrarno district, about a 10-minute's walk south of the Ponte Vecchio. Each night as we walked back to the B&B, we felt that we were leaving the madness and chaos of Florence behind us (wonderful though it can be) and that we were coming "home" for the evening.

Varinia and Edoardo were excellent and caring hosts. They offered us a cell phone to use while we were in Florence; our bed was very comfortable and the room adorable; Edoardo gave us a lovely bottle of wine to enjoy in our room upon our arrival; and the breakfasts were beautifully-presented, and we were offered anything we wanted.

We also enjoyed two of Varinia's "special dinners," one of which followed a cooking class that Varinia taught just to me! Varinia and I made two luscious types of pasta (pumpkin ravioli and tagliatelle with vegetables), talking and laughing and drinking wine in her cute, intimate cucina.
Check out the pictures of some of the courses below!

There are hundreds of places to stay in a city as large as Florence, but I am thrilled that I chose B&B Giglio Bianco. It was not a long walk to the hustle and bustle (and there are tons of cute shops along the way, plus the best pizzeria in all of Florence!), but this B&B offered a quiet, comfortable and safe refuge from the crowds and craziness that you find in the center of the city. We got a wonderful night's sleep each night, delicious and healthy (and mostly organic!) meals, and two new friends in Varinia and Edoardo. Visit http://www.gigliobianco.it/ to see more pictures and book your stay or your cooking class with Varinia and Edoardo!

I miss you, Varinia and Edoardo !

Magellan's Vinni Bag

2009-12-22T18:18:00.000-08:00

The Vinni Bag from Magellan's (http://www.magellans.com/store/Packing_Organizers___Wine_CarriersFP104?Args=&refchan=Search) worked like a charm on my most recent trip in Italy. I used the Vinni Bag to transport a very special bottle, because once I inflated it, I could tell how well-made a product it was and how securely it protected the bottle inside. When fully-inflated (which is soooo easy to do!!), it is very plump and firm. I used it while in Italy to transport my favorite bottle from town to town and then placed it in my checked luggage for the trip home. My suitcase was international carry-on size, so there was not a lot of extra padding around the VinniBag, yet it still protected my purchase perfectly. Now I can enjoy my special Italian treasure! I highly recommend this product and look forward to using it again and again on future trips abroad! Thanks, Magellan's, for offering this unique, useful, and high-quality product.

Here I am holding my inflated Vinni Bag in my room in San Gimignano, Tuscany.

Mi manca il bel paese

2009-12-17T18:51:00.000-08:00

Back from 12 memorable and exciting days in the Bel Paese. Listening to Elisa and drinking a Sangiovese, but it's not the same. The streets outside here are not narrow, not historic, not cobblestoned... They are wide and new and devoid of the special spirit that touches my soul when I walk through an Italian town.... any Italian town.......

I think the only cure for the sadness and hollowness that I feel is to start planning my next trip to Italy. I'm sure in the coming days and weeks, I'll embrace the joys that the mountains here do provide - the playful snowshoes with my dog Drew, the sun-kissed sparkles in the air as I cross-country ski across fresh-fallen snow, and the dreams of springtime with its promise of emerging sprouts of garlic and tulips. But tonight I'm feeling nostalgic and a bit empty....

Leavin..... On a Jet Plane

2009-12-01T08:55:00.000-08:00

Headed to the Bel Paese domani (tomorrow). Non vedo l'ora! I can't wait!

3 nights in Lucca, 3 nights in Florence, 2 nights in San Gimignano, 2 nights in Orvieto, and 1 in Rome. Cooking class in Florence, wine tour of the Chianti region, 2 hour stop-over in Montalcino - oh my GOSH, I can't wait.

I will try to update this blog while I'm there and let you know about the B&Bs and hotels I've chosen, and about all the fun Christmas festivities. I was reading the Lucca newspaper on-line last night, and they are setting up an ice-skating rink in the main piazza. The Christmas shopping season is well-underway in Lucca, and everywhere else, I'm sure.

I hope all my friends and blog readers have a safe and happy first half of December. Feel free to post to this blog and share your tips and insights! Happy Holidays!!!

Magellan's new Vinni Bag for wine transport

2009-11-26T15:55:00.000-08:00

Here is another product I'm taking with me to Italy to product-test - the Vinni Bag from Magellan's. According to the Magellan's website, the Vinni Bag is "an air cushioned ride for your prized vintage. More secure than bubble wrap, the inflatable (and reusable) Vinni Bag seals fine wine, spirits, or other fragile or large items in an air-filled chamber, protecting it from the rigors of travel. Made of PVC, it inflates with just a couple of breaths, safely securing the bottle inside, and has a clear panel on the front for easy inspection by airport security. " I look forward to trying out this made-in-the-USA product! Check back to see for my review of this product.

Meals on the Go in Italy, Part II

2009-11-14T17:41:00.001-08:00

Here is the mug. The handles fold down for easy packing (and you can stuff socks or other things inside the mug, too). I already know that wine tastes fine out of titanium :-)

Meals on the Go in Italy

2009-11-07T16:29:00.001-08:00

Here is the Rick Steves picnic set of utensils - 2 forks, 2 spoons, 2 knives, and a corkscrew - all carry-on compliant. I intend to use this set to have some picnic lunches and some quiet dinners in my room while traveling in Italy this December. This set is available at http://www.ricksteves.com/. I'll let you know how it works.

I'm also going to bring my Snow Peak titanium mug that I use for backpacking. Should be great for wine. Here is the link: http://www.rei.com/product/708072

Sea to Summit TSA compliant Pocket Soaps

2009-11-05T18:36:00.000-08:00

Sea to Summit has come up with a very clever solution to the new 3-oz rule, where all your carry-on liquids have to fit in a quart-sized zip-lock baggy and be in containers 3 oz. or smaller. They have developed little containers of dry soaps - hand soap, laundry soap, conditioning shampoo, shaving soap, and body wash. The soap is in the form of 50 separate "leaves" in each "pocket," so you can use them as you need them. They are also phospate-free and paraben-free and biodegradable.

I'm going to try the laundry soap, hand soap, and conditioning shampoo on my December 2009 Italy adventure, and I'll let you know how well they work for me. Here is the link, though they are also available at REI and other retailers: http://www.seatosummit.com/products/display/84

I'm also going to use the Rick Steves travel clothesline to line-dry my laundry: http://travelstore.ricksteves.com/catalog/index.cfm?fuseaction=product&theParentId=150&id=27 This item can be ordered directly through http://www.ricksteves.com/ or you can find it at most specialty travel stores.

I'm getting so excited! I leave Dec. 2 and arrive in Florence on Dec. 3. I have 3 nights in Lucca, 3 nights in Florence, 2 in San Gimignano, 2 in Orvieto, and 1 in Rome. On the agenda: sightseeing, wine tastings, a private cooking class, a private Chianti tour, Orvieto Underground tour, and some holiday shopping, not to mention the consumption of lots of great food and wine. I'm going to try to update this blog while I'm over there, so keep an eye out for that!

Check out the new La Contadina website!

2009-10-27T13:07:00.000-07:00

Giuliana, the founder/owner of La Contadina Travel and Tours, has just launched her newly-updated website, www.lacontadina.com. It contains more itineraries, more photos, and updated/revised information all in a user-friendly webpage format. We hope you like the new site!

Day by Day, "My Private Italy" tour itinerary

2009-10-19T14:17:00.000-07:00

Day 0 - 1
Depart US/Fly overnight to Italy. Tour begins at Pisa airport, so you may fly either directly into Pisa, or fly to Rome and connect to Pisa by air or by train. At the Pisa airport, you will be met by "La Contadina" tour guide Marybeth (“Bettina” while in Italy) and by filmmaker Steve McCurdy. We will embark on our first adventure right from here by visiting the famed Leaning Tower of Pisa in the Piazza dei Miracoli, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.* From here, we will transfer to Lucca (greater Lucca area pop. 86,000; pop. within medieval walls 8,000) and our centrally-located, 4-star hotel. Time to settle in, stroll in the heart of this proud Etruscan city and enjoy a welcome dinner at one of Lucca’s finest restaurants. A mini language lesson for those interested.

Day 2
Breakfast and a quick morning stroll atop the ramparts to get our blood flowing before our drive to the ocean to visit the Cinque Terre, a string of 5 isolated, rugged villages clinging to the cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean. Let Steve show you some of his favorite spots he filmed for “My Private Italy,” as we search together for the best pesto, the most flavorful wine, lemon-flavored honey, local olive oil, and locally-made handicrafts in this UNESCO Natural World Heritage Park*. This is a day to admire the colorful architecture, breathe deeply of the sea air, and get some exercise as we climb and descend the often-steep and always-quaint village streets. Enjoy a little wine education courtesy of Bettina during dinner together on the coast before we return to our peaceful retreat in Lucca.

Day 3
Breakfast together and then off to Florence for the day! One could spend a whole week in Florence, or perhaps a lifetime, taking in the wonders of this world-famous city. It is not our intention to show you all of Florence but rather to expose you to the grandeur and magnificence of this cultural mecca, visiting some top spots along the way (incl. the Ponte Vecchio), to show you some hidden gems (good places to shop for leather, fun local trattoria for lunch together, best gelateria, etc.), and of course, to pose with the replica of Michelangelo’s David in the Piazza della Signoria. Dinner on your own tonight in Florence (we will happily make recommendations), and then we return to Lucca to pack our bags!

Day 4
This morning is our last breakfast in Lucca. We are going to get an early start so we can enjoy our drive through Tuscany and have time for a brief exploration of “San Gimignano delle belle Torri” (San Gimignano of the beautiful towers, pop. 7100), one of the best-preserved hill towns in all of Tuscany. In fact, San Gimignano has been made a UNESCO World Heritage Site* and still has 14 towers remaining from the 11th-13th centuries. We will wander the hilly streets and, for those up to the task, climb the 54-meter high Torre Grossa for an unparalleled view of the surrounding Tuscan countryside. Before taking off for Spoleto, Umbria, we will visit a famous gelateria (spring tour) and perhaps try the Crema di Santa Fina (orange cream gelato flavored with vanilla bean pods), or the famous Sorbetto alla Vernaccia, another specialty flavor found only here. You may want to pick up a bottle of local Vernaccia di San Gimignano, a lovely white wine made in this region since the Renaissance. We will then drive to Spoleto (pop. 36,000), check into our lovely centrally-located hotel, and call it a day – a great day!

Day 5
We get to sleep in a bit today! Breakfast at our hotel followed by an orientation to Spoleto and a free morning to do as you wish. You may cross the Ponte delle Torri (the Bridge of the Towers which began as a Roman aqueduct), or you may prefer to check out the Teatro Romano (Roman Theater) and the Casa Romana (Roman House). There are also plenty of shops in Spoleto selling lovely and affordable hand-painted ceramics, truffle oil, pasta, wine, and other souvenirs and gifts. Time for a nap in the early afternoon before we gather for our cooking class! Our renowned local chef will teach you to mix simple ingredients and create sophisticated dishes that will impress your friends and family. After our session in the kitchen we will relax and enjoy our scrumptious meal. We will stroll leisurely back to our hotel and enjoy sogni d’oro tonight (dreams of gold). Printed recipes will be emailed to you following the tour’s conclusion.

Day 6
For our last full day together, we will meet after breakfast for our day trip north to Bevagna (pop. 2,400) and Montefalco (pop. 5,500). These hilltop villages are lined with cobblestone streets and old shops. While in Bevagna we will visit a local winery for a wine tasting. On our way back, we will stop in Montefalco, and from the “Balcony of Umbria,” we will savor the panoramic views of the Umbrian hills and let the scenery gently revive our senses. After snacking on pizza we will shop for a wonderful local wine (Sagrantino di Montefalco or a Rosso di Montefalco) or other treasures. Back to Spoleto for our last dinner together and a night “passeggiata.”

Day 7
Arrivederci everyone! Transfer to Rome Fiumicino Airport and buon viaggio! For those of you extending your stay, you can ask to be transferred into the city from the airport. Thank you for traveling with us!

*UNESCO stands for the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization. To learn more about UNESCO, please visit http://www.unesco.org/. Briefly (and taken from their website), UNESCO’s mission is “to contribute to the building of peace, the eradication of poverty, sustainable development and intercultural dialogue through education, the sciences, culture, communication and information.” A sub-mission of UNESCO is “to preserve humanity’s irreplaceable riches: its diversity and shared heritage.” To accomplish this, UNESCO catalogues, names, and conserves sites of outstanding cultural or natural importance to the common heritage of humanity. In particular, a World Heritage Site is a place of either cultural or physical significance and must be of "outstanding universal value." On our “My Private Italy” tour, we will visit 4 such sites: the Piazza del Duomo in Pisa, the Cinque Terre, the historic center of Florence, and San Gimignano.

Cinque Terre, here we come!

2009-10-18T12:18:00.000-07:00

This is a great view of Riomaggiore, one of the 5 towns that make up the Cinque Terre on the Italian Riviera. UNESCO has proclaimed the area a Natural World Heritage Park.

These 5 towns (Monterosso al Mare {the largest}, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore) cling to the cliffs above the Mediterranean, and boast quiet streets (no cars, no traffic), lots of shopping, and great pesto and seafood. We'll visit the Cinque Terre and see how many different pestos we can find, and who can find the best Cinque Terre wine! There are also lots of shops in Riomaggiore that sell olive oil and locally made handicrafts, and the famous "Via dell'Amore," or "Path of Love," is a short hiking trail joining Riomaggiore to the next village to the north, Manarola. You are sure to enjoy the tranquility and beauty of this excursion.

Here is a view of Vernazza taken from the hillside above, at dusk. Each village is unique, yet they are all rugged, coastal, and quite isolated.

Pesto Ingredients:
Send your favorite pesto recipes to us at lacontadina@yahoo.com !

Lucca, Tuscany - first stop on our "My Private Italy" tour!

2009-10-17T12:18:00.000-07:00

This is a view of the medieval walls and ramparts surrounding the lovely town of Lucca in northwestern Tuscany. Locals and tourists alike stroll atop these walls and even ride their bicycles up there for fabulous views. We stay in Lucca for 3 nights on the "My Private Italy" tour, using it as our home-base for exploring the Cinque Terre, Florence, nearby Tuscan hilltowns, and wineries.

This is the facade of the Church of St. Michael (San Michele) in Lucca, Tuscany. The facade is reminiscent of the Cathedral of St. Martin (San Martino), a short distance away. Both facades feature columns that are all different from each other. Legend has it that the columns are different because, when the cathedral was under construction, the residents of Lucca held a contest to see which artist could make the most beautiful column. They couldn't decide and so used all of them to decorate the cathedral's facade. No matter whether the legend is true or not, both the church and the cathedral are breathtakingly beautiful. Our hotel, which is located at the geographic center of historic Lucca, is within easy walking distance to both these famous sites.

Choosing your squash blossoms for stuffing

2009-10-16T18:25:00.000-07:00

http://www.vegetablegardener.com/item/4253/video-squash-blossoms

This link is a great, short video explaining how to choose which squash blossoms to pick from your plant when you want to make stuffed squash blossoms. Many people don't realize that there are male and female blossoms on each plant, and because the females turn into your squash, you don't want to pick too many of the female blossoms. Watch this video to learn the difference!
And check back for a recipe for stuffed squash blossoms that I learned at a cooking class in Italy! The photo to the left shows me blowing the blossom open to prepare it for stuffing.

PS There is no difference in taste between the male and female blossoms.

New Press Release Issued!

2009-10-06T13:13:00.000-07:00

Here is our latest press release regarding our "My Private Italy" tour: http://www.prlog.org/10366149-new-my-private-italy-tour-includes-wine-tasting-cooking-class-with-la-contadina-travel-tours.html Andiamo!

My Private Italy tour dates announced!

2009-10-06T08:27:00.001-07:00

Our "My Private Italy" tour is scheduled for December 14-20, 2009. There are still spots available, but because we like to keep our tour groups small and intimate, we can't accommodate large numbers of guests. The tour price is 2300 Euro, but our Slow Travel ad offers a 10% discount for tour guests paying their deposit before November 1st. Please read more about this awesome tour in my September blog posting, or go to : http://www.slowtrav.com/cl/detail.asp?l=3906

Truffle Trivia, as promised!

2009-10-06T08:10:00.000-07:00

OK, here is the truffle trivia, as promised! This information was provided to us in an unforgettable cooking class in Spoleto, Umbria, at Il Tartufo - meaning, "The Truffle."

Store white truffles in damp towel, but store black truffles in dry towel.
Always use white truffles fresh, never cooked (the heat of the dish will release the flavor), whereas black truffles are made into sauces and salsas - they are never shaved fresh or raw on top of a dish.
There are two types of Black truffles - summer and winter varieties.
What should you pay for truffles? White truffles cost about 180 Euro/kilo. Summer black truffles cost ~150 Euro/kilo, and winter black truffles can easily cost up to 1500 Euro/kilo !
Other differences between summer and winter black truffles:
The summer type is the "lesser" type and therefore costs much less; the winter type is called "pregiato," which meach appreciated or prestigious. It is the more precious of the two types of black truffles.
Summer black truffles' surface is thick and abrasive/rough with bigger holes, whereas the winter black truffles' surface is smoother with tiny pores.
You should clean the surface of black truffles with a little brush to remove the dirt (also makes them weigh less so you pay less!) allowing you to carefully examine the surface. It could save you a lot of money and help you not pay for winter truffles when they're trying to sell you summer truflles (if you happen to encounter an unscrupulous vendor).
Summer black truffles are black on the outside but beige on the inside! Winter black truffles are actually black throughout, even a dark purplish black.
Black truffles, both summer and winter, have veins running throughout. The summer truffles' veins are larger and fewer, whereas the winter truffles' veins are very thin and narrow.

Now, you are all prepared to shop for truffles! Buon appetito!

The Bottle Pocket - Better Than the Wineskin? Maybe!

2009-09-28T12:56:00.001-07:00

Bottle Pocket: http://www.magellans.com/store/Health___Hygiene___Food___DrinkFP106?Args=

Check this out! Are you always afraid that your wine or olive oil is going to break in your luggage? I've managed to bring home all sorts of bottled goodies without having them break, but I'm always on the look-out for an easier way. Well, last year, I blogged about the "Wine Skin," (http://www.magellans.com/store/Health___Hygiene___Food___DrinkFP321?Args=),

. There is now another product on the market: the Bottle Pocket. It looks great for packing home that precious wine or olive oil ! I still might bring my paper wine tubes (similar to the one in this picture, http://www.papertube86.com/products/Paper-Wine-Tube-corrugated-tube-gift-tube-ball-tube--HG-0185.htm though I get mine at the local "Tuesday Morning" discount store.) I've found that the combination of bubble wrap and the strong paper tubes really works. The Bottle Pocket adds another layer of protection - if the bottle should break, the Bottle Pocket will contain the leak. Hope this helps. Happy Traveling!

Truffle Trivia

2009-09-27T09:08:00.001-07:00

Do you know all the differences between white and black truffles? between summer and winter truffles? Do you know how much you should pay for each kind?

Check back in mid-October for a post on "truffle trivia."

The information comes direct to you from the "people in the know," the chefs of "Il Tartufo," which means "The Truffle," a lovely historic restaurant in the heart of Umbria and one of the places where we hold our La Contadina cooking classes. Remember to come back and check out the blog!

pere al vino UPDATE

2009-09-27T09:06:00.000-07:00

OK, you have GOT to try this! I made canned pears two ways yesterday - with ruby port wine and with pear brandy. Both ways are intoxicatingly delicious. I wish I had enough to ship a jar to everyone who reads this blog. You only add 1 tbsp. of the liquor to each 8 oz. jar, while the rest is packed with the sliced, lightly-cooked pears and the sugar syrup. Indescribable.

View our latest Press Release:

2009-09-20T17:54:00.001-07:00

http://www.prlog.org/10348235-la-contadina-travels-tours-announces-new-italy-tour-itinerary-my-own-private-italy.html

Announcing the new "My Private Italy" tour! Mid December 2009

2009-09-20T17:38:00.000-07:00

Announcing our new “My Private Italy” tour, mid December 2009.

We have developed a new itinerary featuring some of the places highlighted in Steve’s film, “My Private Italy,” and we’ve also included some old favorites from the “Postcards from Italy” tour itinerary. Plus, there are a few surprises included that we just can’t mention ‘til we get there!

We are planning to stay in Lucca, Tuscany for the 1st part of the tour, with day visits to the Cinque Terre (5 villages clinging to the cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean, and famous for their pesto and their wine), to Firenze (Florence), a major art and cultural city in Italy, and to Santa Luce, a darling hilltop village. Lucca, founded by the Romans, was later encircled by a series of pink-brick ramparts (construction began in 1544), which are now a favorite place atop which both locals and tourists like to stroll, gazing down into the city and out over the surrounding mountains. It's a lovely place to stay for 4 nights, and you will have some free time to explore Lucca on your own and find some souvenirs and do some Christmas shopping :-)

Santa Luce and the Cinque Terre are featured in Steve's film, "My Private Italy." A copy of this film is available on DVD to those interested in booking the tour. Just send us an email and provide your mailing address.

Starting this tour in Pisa also affords us the opportunity to see the Leaning Tower of Pisa before we head to Lucca - an added bonus not to be underestimated. You can see a picture of me on top of the Leaning Tower on a blog post below. Climbing the marble steps once climbed by Galileo is a very powerful experience.

Then we head to Spoleto, Umbria for the last few nights of our tour. Spoleto is where we have our fabulous cooking class (it is SO much FUN!). Spoleto is a hilltop town in Umbria that boasts fabulous restaurants and a lot of Roman sites (an ancient "teatro," or theater, and the famous "Bridge of the Towers," which began as a Roman aquaduct. That's also where my favorite ceramics shop is located. I plan to buy a few more coffee cups this time - the perfect spot for Christmas gift shopping.

Spoleto, by the way, is featured in another of Steve's films, "Postcards from Italy."

Following our precious time in Spoleto, we transfer to Rome and our tour concludes upon our arrival at the airport, about noontime. Some tour guests like to stay on at the end of the tour and explore more of Rome on their own for a day or two. I always stay myself for a day or two to do some shopping (my favorite bookstore is there!) and exploring. There is still so much to see!

This tour includes a wine tasting, the cooking class, all transportation including airport pick up and drop off, all breakfasts, and either lunch or dinner (more dinners than lunches), and wine with dinner. Tour starts in Pisa and ends in Rome. Let me know what you think! Cost is 2300 Euros, plus airfare (which is about 1/2 the usual cost right now!).

New Tours Scheduled!

2009-09-16T14:19:00.001-07:00

We are announcing a December 2009 tour as well as a spring 2010 tour to Italia! Dates will be released soon. With these super low airfares, we just can't resist planning some new tours to our favorite destination. Check out www.lacontadina.com for more information in the coming weeks, and also note that the La Contadina website will have a fresh look soon. We are revamping and updating the website to better serve your needs!!

New Venice Film Clip from Steve McCurdy

2009-09-16T14:08:00.000-07:00

Please view this recently produced short clip on Venice, Italy, by Steve McCurdy. You'll be buying a plane ticket shortly thereafter! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RarC8vlQodo

pere al vino, and so much more!

2009-09-15T12:37:00.000-07:00

Hi everyone,

It's early fall, and it's the season to break out my copy of, "Conservare frutta e verdura," a book in Italian (of course) about preserving your garden's harvest by canning, drying, etc. I stumbled across a "pere al vino" recipe last night, and it's one I've got to try with all the pears that are dropping from my pear tree. Basically, you quarter the pears, core them, soak them in sugary water and lemon juice, then cook them in red wine before canning them. Yum! If they turn out well, I'll let you know and post the "ricette."

I also just received, "The Complete Book of Garlic," a huge volume containing - you guessed it - everything you want to know about growing, harvesting, tasting, and cooking with garlic. I've ordered 4 new kinds to grow next year, including "Italian Purple" and "Lorz Italian." I'll let you know how they taste!

Hope everyone has enjoyed the summer!!
PS Sept 21: I just received my 20'-long fruit tree fruit picker and a cool harvesting bag. I feel like a real orchardist now :-)

New Press Release Issued! Special Holiday Booking Discount for La Contadina Tours in 2009

2008-12-07T14:10:00.001-08:00

Please visit our latest press release to learn more about La Contadina's Holiday Booking Discount: http://www.prlog.org/10151783-la-contadina-travels-and-tours-offers-discount-for-holiday-bookings-of-small-group-tours-to-italy.html

Travel360Network member

2008-11-29T22:27:00.001-08:00

2008-11-29T20:48:00.000-08:00

I just learned about the WineSkin bag (http://www.ftscontent.com/index.html), which I'm going to order and try on my next trip for bringing home wine. In the past, I've brought bubble wrap, neoprene bags such as the ones by Built, NY, and cylindrical cardboard bottle holders. I've brought home many bottles of wine and olive oil, and I've yet to break one! I think these WineSkins look really cool, though. If anyone has experience with these, please let me know!

2008-11-26T16:33:00.000-08:00

I recommend that you visit www.elisatoffoli.com to listen some great music by a darling and very talented Italian artist - she is a superstar in Italy! Elisa came to Salt Lake City recently on her first American & Canadian tour, and I went to the club to see her perform. She was awesome! I've just received one of her CD/DVD sets from ibs.it. Now all I need is to get my portable region-free, zone-free DVD player so I can watch the DVD (it won't play on a regular U.S. DVD player).

New Press Release about our upcoming tour!

2008-11-18T17:46:00.000-08:00

http://www.prlog.org/10143073-introducing-la-contadinas-new-italy-tour-with-documentary-filmmaker-steven-robert-mccurdy.html

Click on this link to read our latest press release!

This press release announces the new "Postcards from Italy" tour that we are launching for 2009.

Italy trip Dec 2005

2008-11-17T14:39:00.001-08:00

Tramonto a Roma - Roman Sunset - December 2005

In December 2005, I had the opportunity to travel with my boss to Italy to attend a research conference in Genoa, and she and I decided to extend our trip into a week's vacation. I studied Italian intensively for 3 weeks prior to the trip and tried to speak as much Italian as I could during the trip. I used to be fluent in French, so it wasn't as hard as it might otherwise have been :-) Trying to connect with the locals in their native language really enhanced my overall experience. I could tell that they were touched by my efforts (and amused at my mistakes!). After our conference in Genoa, we hopped on a train and headed "solo andata" (one-way) to Pisa before proceeding to Rome. Whereas others had told me that Pisa was 'boring' or a 'let-down' or 'not worth seeing,' I found it breathtaking and exhilerating. We rounded the corner in the cab at night, on a full moon, to have the Leaning Tower come into view right in front of us. I was moved to tears. The next morning, we climbed the steps, the worn, marble steps once walked by Galileo, to the very top for a spectacular view of the city and the mountains to the northeast. What part of that was 'boring' or 'not worth seeing?' Here we are at the top of the Leaning Tower:

Pisa is also where I first heard about and experienced a wonderful Tuscan treat - vin santo with cantuccini. Vin santo is a sweet dessert wine made from dried grapes, and it is enjoyed by dunking cantucci, or cantuccini (small cookies, or biscotti) into the glass. Certainly not 'boring!'

Then we traveled to Rome. I am not a city person, per se. I generally prefer being in the woods and the mountains, away from the crowds. However, there was something so remarkable about the ancient history of Rome that I felt myself wanting to stay, and wanting to try living there for a while. We hired a guide and explored the Forum, Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona, and the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel. That evening, we enjoyed an incredibly delicious feast at Il Giardino, a restaurant right near our Hotel, the Antica Roma, specializing in Sardinian food. I made the grave error (!) of telling the waiter how much I was enjoying the Sicilian food - oh Mamma Mia, not a good mistake to make! He feigned terrible indignation, and then kindly explained my 'faux pas.' :-) We also did a fair amount of shopping and found a terrific shop selling our new favorite - limoncello! Here is my boss trying to decide which bottle(s) of limoncello to buy!

Italy New Year's Eve Tour Dec 06/Jan 07

2008-11-17T13:38:00.000-08:00

In December 2006, I participated in Giuliana's

La Contadina New Year's eve tour. This is our

group after a day spent savoring the Umbrian town of Assisi. We arrived in Rome and transferred to Siena, where we experienced fabulous Tuscan food and wine and where we toured the Campo and the enjoyed exploring the historic city center. One of my biggest adventures was finding the yarn shop I'd identified on-line before my trip, and I did find it, and I bought many beautiful skeins of Italian yarn! The shopkeepers were very kind and quite amused at my excitement over finding them :-)

After a side trip to Monteriggione, a true Tuscan gem, we left Tuscany for Umbria and settled into a lovely "castello" (a beautifully-renovated farm house on extensive and well-kept grounds) on the outskirts of Assisi. What a fabulous place for a New Year's Eve celebration, and a great home base for excursions into Assisi and Todi.

The end of our tour would find us in Spoleto, a hilltop town in southern Umbria featuring an ancient Roman theater, the impressive Ponte delle Torri, and the site of our cooking class - a memorable afternoon and evening indeed! Here is a picture of us in our cooking class: